Pauls Valley is a
little town in south central Oklahoma. It was born as a farming community, and
later there was a little oil boom there, but for the last 30 or 40 years it's
been getting smaller instead of larger. When you drive down Paul Avenue, the
main drag, you don't see any new buildings. If people stop there, it's usually
just to get gas or a snack on their way to Dallas.
Pauls Valley is
still a pretty little town though. It's one of those towns where the tree
branches form an arch over the streets which are still paved with bricks in
some areas. I never lived in Pauls Valley, but I visited my grandmother there
every other weekend for most of my childhood, so I feel at home there. The
other reason it's special to me is because it was named after my great great
grandfather, Smith Paul.
I think I've told
the story of Smith Paul before, how he ran away from home and joined the
Chickasaws, and then came with them from their homeland in what is now
Mississippi on their "Trail of Tears" in 1837. In about 1844 he
married my great great grandmother, a full blood Indian woman named Ela-teecha.
The Chickasaw
settlers were threatened by the "wild" Plains Indian tribes who
thought of them as invaders, so they lived close to forts for protection. In
1845 they moved next to Fort Washita, and when Fort Arbuckle was built in 1851 they
moved close to it. It was in about 1858 or 9 when Smith and Ellen - that's how
Ela-teecha was known in the family - moved to the present location of Pauls
Valley.
Pauls Valley is
located where Rush Creek flows into the Washita River, which was large enough
in Smith Paul's day to float a pretty large boat. Smith Paul had always wanted
to farm on a large scale, and the land in the Valley was the best he had ever
seen. The grass on the prairie was so tall it could hide a man on horseback,
and Smith's farm yielded 30 to 40 bushels of corn per acre without cultivation.
More recent studies have shown that the topsoil there is 17 to 20 feet thick.
Smith and Ellen
spent the Civil War years in the valley, without much company other than the
friendly Indian tribes who would supply them with meat in exchange for corn.
After the War others came to the valley and formed a settlement there which
became known as Smith Paul's Valley. The main road west went through the town
and carried supplies to Fort Cobb and Fort Sill.
Ellen Paul had been
married before, to a man named Jason McClure who had died in 1843 of
hydrophobia, or rabies, and she had two children by McClure: a boy, Tecumseh,
and a girl, Kathrine. She and Smith Paul had three children together: a boy
Jesse, who died as a young man; a girl, Mississippia, and my great grandfather,
Sam. They all remained in the valley after they married and raised their
families there.
In the early days
Smith Pauls Valley was part of the Chickasaw Nation, which had its own
government and its own laws. The main issue of the time was over whether or not
to allow intermarried white settlers the right to vote. Many of the Chickasaws
were not happy with the changes that the whites had brought. They preferred to
live as they had always lived, in small family groups, using only what they
needed. They saw the desire of the white man for wealth and possessions as a
threat to their way of life.
Smith and Ellen's
children were split over the issue. Sam Paul was a Progressive, in favor of
welcoming the white man, and working toward eventual statehood for the
territory with a joint Indian - white government. His older half-brother
Tecumseh, on the other hand, was a member of the "Pull-back" Party,
and was dead set against allowing whites any more influence.
The issue came to a
head with the coming of the railroad. Most Indians were against building a
railroad across the Territory, because it represented more whites, more businesses,
and more towns. They were already outnumbered seven to one by whites in their
own country. After the Civil War, the U.S. Government used the fact that most
of the Indians had supported the Confederacy as an excuse to demand reparations.
It didn't make any difference that the Indians were more or less forced into
the War by being occupied by Confederate Troops. One of the concessions
demanded of the Chickasaws and Choctaws was that railroad lines be built across
their Nations. One line would cross east to west and the other north to south.
Footnote: The
Chickasaws, Arrell Gibson, P 276 describes the post Civil War treaty , and p 284
gives the dates, names, and locations of the railroads.
The first line, the
M.K. & T. was built in 1872. It crossed the southern part of the Nation,
and although it brought with it more settlers, laborers, gamblers, prostitutes,
and liquor, just as the Indians had feared, it was a long way from Smith Pauls
Valley. The real problem came in 1887 when the north - south line was built by the
Santa Fe Company. It was to come right through the Valley.
Naturally the
railroad wanted to locate a depot in Smith Paul's Valley, now a major
settlement, but Tecumseh McClure refused to release the land. According to
Chickasaw law, a person could not own land, but he could use all the land that
he needed, and the place selected for the depot was on land that Tecumseh
controlled.
When Tecumseh's
brother Sam found out about the dilemma, he contacted the railroad and offered to
let them use his land for the depot, so the Santa Fe engineers took him up on his
offer. Sam Paul's land was three miles south of the town so locating the depot
there meant that the town had to be moved. Sam Paul, a true businessmen,
immediately began selling town lots. By the time the depot was built, he owned
the town. They say that it was the railroad that was responsible for shortening
the town's name to Pauls Valley. The name Smith Pauls Valley was too long to go
on the sign.
Sam Paul's vision
of the future eventually came to pass, even though the rift between him and his
brother eventually led to Sam's death. Pauls Valley was a thriving and prosperous
town for the next fifty years.
Footnote: Uncle
Haskell's notes tell about the conflict between Sam Paul and Tecumseh McClure.
Santa Fe
locomotive - Pauls Valley